Address: 248 Swan Street, Richmond [Google Maps]
Phone: (03) 9429 0085
Hours: Sun-Thu 12.00pm - 9.30pm / Fri & Sat 12.00pm - 10.30pm
Prices: Tacos $6 / Mains $12-15
|Chilled horchata and mixed tacos|
This week, Melburnians were treated to the first breath of spring weather, with conditions - at last - ever so slightly more hospitable than the Arctic Circle. The warm air and lunchtime rays put us in the mood for chillis and citrus, something bright and fresh.
Fonda Mexican is doing a roaring trade at midday but happily, there are no queues of Mamasita-proportions to deal with. It has the feel of a Mexican diner, with friendly, efficient service, a hypercolour drinking courtyard and cheerful music. We sit kerbside and are promptly joined by our food.
Ample portions of horchata are served in jars and are the ideal respite when your mouth is overloaded with jalapeños. This milky beverage is light and rejuvenating, gently spiced with cinnamon and vanilla. It is a testament to what can be done with evaporated milk, which I've a growing appreciation for since a friend made a sumptuous aji de gallina for me (a spicy, Peruvian chicken stew).
Soft tacos are pressed to order; the slow-cooked goat taco is succulent and creamy, with its ample lashing of guacamole. As some other diners have mentioned, the meaty tacos have a propensity to drip, so leave the white Armani at home, but I was not bothered, such was my happiness munching on such delicious fare in the sunshine.
The fish taco is also good, an elegant vehicle for the power of the chipotle aioli, accompanied with crunchy, pickled vegetables.
Two tacos is enough to sate me today, so I've no excuse to try the pickled cactus quesadilla, but indeed, we've summer still to come and Fonda Mexican are considerate enough to not only be cooking traditional, delicious cantina fare, but also to be licensed and serving up 100% agave frozen margaritas.