Lessons in vegetarianism from Croatia

Having decimated the Greek dolmades population, I made for Croatia, where a rampage against the nation's culinary treats was high on the agenda. Diversity and quality though were not generally high and while the ćevapčići were tasty, the emphasis on minced meat, sausage and pizza made for a heavy heart (and stomach).

In Old Town Dubrovnik however, I found one of the best dining experiences of my trip, Nishta Vegetarian Restaurant (food porn further down), which inspired this week's breakfast-dessert of wild rice, citrus, berries and creamy coconut.

Lemon cardamom wild rice w/ yogurt, berry coulis, coconut and mint

To make this yourself, you'll need:

• 100g Canadian wild rice
• 250ml light coconut milk
• 1 tsp palm sugar
• 2 tsp cardamom
• 1 tbsp lemon zest
• Natural yogurt
• Dessicated coconut
• Fresh mint
• Quantity of berry coulis

As far as the coulis is concerned, you could pull a Nigella and buy a very nice jar of St Dalfour preserves, or you can make it yourself by gently boiling 250g of mixed berries, 75g of castor sugar and 50ml of water and passing the mixture through a sieve (excess quantities will freeze well).

Rinse the rice and simmer over medium heat in coconut milk with palm sugar, cardamom and lemon zest for 40 minutes, stirring often. Keep tasting and add more palm sugar, cardamom and zest as necessary, as the desired strength of these elements is subjective. Turn out and top with a dollop of natural yogurt, lashings of berry coulis, a sprinkling of coconut and fresh mint leaves.

Nishta's food was so delicious and clean tasting that I made the unprecedented decision to return for dinner, having enjoyed my lunch so much. A mix of vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and raw selections offer diversity of flavour, texture and ethnicity, with influences from Indian, Japanese, Mexican and Italian cuisine.

With the temperature climbing as high as 38°C, the raw zucchini "spaghetti" was refreshing and light. The zucchini quite effectively mimics pasta, with its neutral taste, boosted by a rich sauce of sundried tomatoes, dates, basil and olive oil. Diced tomato and basil leaves finish the dish. I wish to order it again but opt to try dessert instead.

Zucchini "spaghetti" w/ sundried tomato, date and basil sauce

Cute and colourful rice noodle pudding arrives in its own jar, with spice, citrus and a thick topping of raspberry coulis, with fresh mint. I promptly make my dinner reservation.

Rice noodle pudding w/ raspberry coulis and mint

The steep landscape of the town have my quadriceps working over time and I am famished by the time dinner rolls around, an excellent excuse to go the full three-course set. I start with aromatic, unsweetened ginger ale, which has compelled me to try some at-home fermentation.

Caramelized tofu and pineapple skewers are firm, savoury and sweet, drizzled in smooth peanut sauce and served with quinoa salad of walnuts and coriander that is excellent in its own right.

Tofu skewers w/ peanut sauce and quinoa salad / House-made unsweetened ginger ale

A thick ragu of grah seasoned with smoked seitan and mustard is hearty and rich, served alla parmigiana with grilled polenta.

Bean and lentil grah w/ polenta triangles

The density of the grah sees me taking a break before dessert - an elegant glass of figs macerated in dessert wine and topped with creamy cinnamon mascarpone strewn with tangy strands of candied orange zest and buttery biscuit pieces.

Cinnamon mascarpone, figs macerated in dessert wine, candied orange zest, biscuit pieces

Vegetarianism seems like such a challenge, until you experience possibilities like this. Outstanding.

Ginger fermentation experiments forthcoming...