Mi casa, su casa, pass the tequila

Venue: Fonda Mexican

Style: Mexican

Address: 248 Swan Street, Richmond [Google Maps]

Phone: (03) 9429 0085

Hours: Sun-Thu 12.00pm - 9.30pm / Fri & Sat 12.00pm - 10.30pm

Prices: Tacos $6 / Mains $12-15

Bookings: No

Website: http://fondamexican.com.au/

Chilled horchata and mixed tacos

This week, Melburnians were treated to the first breath of spring weather, with conditions - at last - ever so slightly more hospitable than the Arctic Circle. The warm air and lunchtime rays put us in the mood for chillis and citrus, something bright and fresh.

Sage advice

Fonda Mexican is doing a roaring trade at midday but happily, there are no queues of Mamasita-proportions to deal with. It has the feel of a Mexican diner, with friendly, efficient service, a hypercolour drinking courtyard and cheerful music. We sit kerbside and are promptly joined by our food.

Ample portions of horchata are served in jars and are the ideal respite when your mouth is overloaded with jalapeños. This milky beverage is light and rejuvenating, gently spiced with cinnamon and vanilla. It is a testament to what can be done with evaporated milk, which I've a growing appreciation for since a friend made a sumptuous aji de gallina for me (a spicy, Peruvian chicken stew).

Soft tacos are pressed to order; the slow-cooked goat taco is succulent and creamy, with its ample lashing of guacamole. As some other diners have mentioned, the meaty tacos have a propensity to drip, so leave the white Armani at home, but I was not bothered, such was my happiness munching on such delicious fare in the sunshine.

The fish taco is also good, an elegant vehicle for the power of the chipotle aioli, accompanied with crunchy, pickled vegetables.

Two tacos is enough to sate me today, so I've no excuse to try the pickled cactus quesadilla, but indeed, we've summer still to come and Fonda Mexican are considerate enough to not only be cooking traditional, delicious cantina fare, but also to be licensed and serving up 100% agave frozen margaritas.

A wonderful, maaagical animal

Venue: Breslin Bar & Grill

Style: Steakhouse, Rotisserie, BBQ

Address: 3 Southbank Boulevard, Southbank [Google Maps]

Phone: (03) 9455 8855

Hours: Lunch and dinner / 7 days

Prices: Starters $19 / Mains $20-40 / Tasting menu $80

Bookings: Accepted

Website: http://breslingrill.com.au/

With its antler chandeliers, varnished surfaces and statement Laguiole cutlery, the Breslin Bar & Grill brings to Southbank a steakhouse with the look of a high-gloss hunting lodge. Billed as an ‘in your face’ temple where the carcass is consecrated, diners can choose from wood-fired steaks and ribs to sharing feasts that revolve around utilizing every part of one magical animal.

In their first week of trade, the restaurant is doing a reasonable number of covers on the Monday night we visit, though with the noise and light level low, the atmosphere is rather serious and does not have much in common with the traditionally raucous New York steakhouse, from which the Breslin takes its inspiration. However, the chef has organized for us a menu showcasing the cuts from a Flinders Island lamb and the eating proves to be in the spirit of joyful, carnivorous abandon.

Shredded lamb neck croquettes w/ pepperonata salsa

Shredded lamb neck croquettes fall apart beautifully beneath our forks and each mouthful reveals salty treasures within, including capers, olives and smooth goats cheese. The accompanying 2010 Alsace Gentil "Hugel" offers good body and a little spice, with the easy-drinking characteristics of pinot gris.

Lamb burger sliders

Across the entire table, lamb burger sliders are a hit. The pattie is exceptionally flavoursome and not at all dry, finished with sweet relish and a generous helping of thick tzatziki.

12-hour braised lamb ribs w/ mint verde

Unfortunately, a distinct lack of seasoning on the lamb ribs is very noticeable, after the things the lamb burger did to our mouths. The ribs are well cooked, with a satisfying distribution of fat, but the finish is too rich and we find ourselves wanting for citrus or gremolata, something to brighten up the taste of the meat. The mint sauce sounds as though it should work but it's unremarkable. We also note the lack of a finger bowl in which to dip our greasy digits.

Pan fried lamb brains w/ salad of cos, green beans, peas, broad beans and truffle oil

Upon arrival, I did note that our little menus made mention of an entrée of lamb brains and I took a breath: my last culinary frontier. In spite of having grown up happily chowing down on tongue, neck, cheek and liver, there is something about the notion of dining on brains that has always given me a headache, almost like psychic pain, leaving me with a desire to clutch at my scalp.

Verdict? A fellow diner likened the texture to pudding and he's not far off; it's very soft and yielding, while holding its shape. It practically melts away in my mouth, but nevertheless, I can't resist piling the salad of beans and peas in after it, to neutralize the sensation (the salad is delicate and pleasing in its own right, but as it turns out, the rest of the table is offended by the dish - not by virtue of the creamy little brains but the truffle oil).

I switch to merlot in readiness for the main course, a trio of Flinders Island lamb consisting of:

- Rotisserie saddle with anchovy and seeded mustard filling,
- Leg of lamb deboned and flame cooked, and
- Pink rack of lamb point.

Trio of Flinders Island lamb...

...with luxurious jus, borlotti beans and baby potatoes

Accompaniments include bitter greens, a marvellously buttery jus that I wish to swim in, fresh borlotti beans, very good herbed, baby potatoes and a selection of mustards, horseradish and sauces. This is a beautiful product that has been cooked flawlessly; the colour is enticingly pink and each part is tender and comforting to eat, everything you hope for with lamb.

Recognition that I am full has no bearing on my appetite for dessert. We presume we'll be seeing a quintessential New York cheesecake. Rather, the star of the sweets selection is a tall, enticing trifle, with oodles of rhubarb and vanilla custard, with a brûlée lid. You don't eat it so much as excavate for it with a long spoon and it's not the ideal dish for sharing, but we've grown comfortable with the feel-good food and no-one begrudges anybody else the mess they make as they obtain their share.

The bread and butter pudding is warm and gratifying, with ample dried fruit and a dollop of exceptional clotted cream. I also enjoy the plush carrot and walnut cake, though others are underwhelmed. When we attempt to section off the tart however, the pastry proves to be extremely hard and the lemon filling is too thick to be called curd.

Lemon meringue tart and bread & butter pudding

Carrot walnut cake w/ Chantilly cream and trifle

The essential components are there, in spite of a few missteps. Our lamb menu was pleasurable and varied, with dishes that were at times flawless (slider, trio) and challenging (I still could not bring myself to order brains of my own volition).

The Breslin is a welcome injection of personality to the Southbank dining precinct and I am hungry to see what they do with beef (hold the testicles).

Lessons in vegetarianism from Croatia

Having decimated the Greek dolmades population, I made for Croatia, where a rampage against the nation's culinary treats was high on the agenda. Diversity and quality though were not generally high and while the ćevapčići were tasty, the emphasis on minced meat, sausage and pizza made for a heavy heart (and stomach).

In Old Town Dubrovnik however, I found one of the best dining experiences of my trip, Nishta Vegetarian Restaurant (food porn further down), which inspired this week's breakfast-dessert of wild rice, citrus, berries and creamy coconut.

Lemon cardamom wild rice w/ yogurt, berry coulis, coconut and mint

To make this yourself, you'll need:

• 100g Canadian wild rice
• 250ml light coconut milk
• 1 tsp palm sugar
• 2 tsp cardamom
• 1 tbsp lemon zest
• Natural yogurt
• Dessicated coconut
• Fresh mint
• Quantity of berry coulis

As far as the coulis is concerned, you could pull a Nigella and buy a very nice jar of St Dalfour preserves, or you can make it yourself by gently boiling 250g of mixed berries, 75g of castor sugar and 50ml of water and passing the mixture through a sieve (excess quantities will freeze well).

Rinse the rice and simmer over medium heat in coconut milk with palm sugar, cardamom and lemon zest for 40 minutes, stirring often. Keep tasting and add more palm sugar, cardamom and zest as necessary, as the desired strength of these elements is subjective. Turn out and top with a dollop of natural yogurt, lashings of berry coulis, a sprinkling of coconut and fresh mint leaves.

Nishta's food was so delicious and clean tasting that I made the unprecedented decision to return for dinner, having enjoyed my lunch so much. A mix of vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and raw selections offer diversity of flavour, texture and ethnicity, with influences from Indian, Japanese, Mexican and Italian cuisine.

With the temperature climbing as high as 38°C, the raw zucchini "spaghetti" was refreshing and light. The zucchini quite effectively mimics pasta, with its neutral taste, boosted by a rich sauce of sundried tomatoes, dates, basil and olive oil. Diced tomato and basil leaves finish the dish. I wish to order it again but opt to try dessert instead.

Zucchini "spaghetti" w/ sundried tomato, date and basil sauce

Cute and colourful rice noodle pudding arrives in its own jar, with spice, citrus and a thick topping of raspberry coulis, with fresh mint. I promptly make my dinner reservation.

Rice noodle pudding w/ raspberry coulis and mint

The steep landscape of the town have my quadriceps working over time and I am famished by the time dinner rolls around, an excellent excuse to go the full three-course set. I start with aromatic, unsweetened ginger ale, which has compelled me to try some at-home fermentation.

Caramelized tofu and pineapple skewers are firm, savoury and sweet, drizzled in smooth peanut sauce and served with quinoa salad of walnuts and coriander that is excellent in its own right.

Tofu skewers w/ peanut sauce and quinoa salad / House-made unsweetened ginger ale

A thick ragu of grah seasoned with smoked seitan and mustard is hearty and rich, served alla parmigiana with grilled polenta.

Bean and lentil grah w/ polenta triangles

The density of the grah sees me taking a break before dessert - an elegant glass of figs macerated in dessert wine and topped with creamy cinnamon mascarpone strewn with tangy strands of candied orange zest and buttery biscuit pieces.

Cinnamon mascarpone, figs macerated in dessert wine, candied orange zest, biscuit pieces

Vegetarianism seems like such a challenge, until you experience possibilities like this. Outstanding.

Ginger fermentation experiments forthcoming...